Arts in ReviewOutside the (take-out) box: Duke of Dublin

Outside the (take-out) box: Duke of Dublin

This article was published on July 26, 2011 and may be out of date. To maintain our historical record, The Cascade does not update or remove outdated articles.
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Date Posted: July 27, 2011
Print Edition: July 8, 2011

Duke of Dublin
33720 South Fraser Way, Abbotsford
www.dukeofdublin.com

By Amy Van Veen (The Cascade) – Email

Duke of Dublin Olde Irish Pub in Abbotsford is one of two Irish restaurants with the same owners, and no, that other pub is not the Langley watering hole. Its other location is in Chilliwack and is rather redundantly named Duke of Dublin Social House Restaurant Bar. The names would lead me to assume that Abbotsford’s location is more of a traditional pub with the “olde” spelling, instead of a rather Western “social bar.”

While its Langley counterpart offers up Irish tradition in every nook of the pub and every corner of the menu, Duke of Dublin isn’t afraid to get comfortable in its Canadian, multi-cultural setting. In other words, while Dublin Crossing serves bangers and mash, the Duke goes from Irish classics to global fare and back again with a jam-packed menu.

I opted for famous fish and chips and the wonderfully honest waitress talked me into switching out the classic chips for yam chips (or fries for those this side of the Atlantic). Yam fries are often a hit or miss situation. In some cases they can be too thick and therefore too soft and impossible to dip in the aioli; however, Duke was a pleasant surprise. Their yam fries are thin and crispy, the perfect complement to a satisfying piece of fried halibut.

The other dish that meandered its way onto my table was a plate of sweet chilli chicken tenders that were indeed sweet, but had just the right amount of spicy bite to make them a little more interesting.

The drink menu gave me the chance to try a smooth glass of Shiraz for only six bucks, but the choice of both beer and wine was a little disappointing. Compared to Dublin Crossing, the selection was fairly scant and what’s worse was that only half of the wine options were available in a glass, as opposed to a whole bottle. This is fine when you’re with a larger group of winos, but when you’re on your own, it would just seem sad.

Like any good restaurant companion, I snuck a sip of a friend’s bellini and it gives Milestones’ a run for its money. Most frozen cocktails have the tendency to be too sweet to handle, but Duke’s knows how to pair up the sweet with the tart making for a glass of balanced perfection.

As for location, Duke’s uses the guise of an Irish pub to keep patrons from noticing the rather inauthentic surroundings; however, this need not be a drawback. Even though Dublin Crossing has the whole nook and cranny feeling down pat, it does make both seating and entertainment a difficulty. Duke’s has an upper loft area, that can be reserved for larger parties, which overlooks the stage and dancing area. The stage itself is situated right by the bar, with easy visual access from most every table in the larger, more open space of the pub itself. Though it’s not traditional, it’s a little more comfortable for those who want to remain in Canada with just a taste of culture from across the pond.

Another element of non-authenticity would have to be the music selection; try as I might, I cannot imagine a pub in the UK blasting Black Eyed Peas and weak Beatles covers, though the volume was at a much more manageable level than Langley’s Dublin Crossing.

The mystery that remains, however, is what the pub turns into after dinner. As my party was leaving at around 9:30 p.m., a cover charge had been instated as well as several security guards out front. As taxi after taxi pulled up, dropping off crowds of the obnoxious, I could only thank an early dinner for keeping me from the club-like beat emitting out of Duke’s substantial front doors.

Though it’s a little pricey in comparison to other eateries, as an Irish pub, it’s fairly average. If you’re looking for good food and a fun atmosphere, hit up the Duke and maybe even stay late to uncover the mystery.

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